Faux fur statement pieces have seen a rise in popularity recently. Typical faux fur garments are simple, straightforward designs with limited pattern pieces and a loose, unstructured fit with no lapels or design details. Rejecting the fast fashion presumption of construction awakens the possibilities for more exciting style lines, sophisticated structure and sumptuous details. This overcoat project involves the construction of underpinnings similar to a tailored jacket while navigating the technical challenges of sewing with faux fur .
Every pattern piece is interfaced with medium non-woven fusible to give the feel of a weightier winter fabric. Interface is kept out of seamline areas to remove bulk and insure crisp lines. Interfacing or flatlining the entirety of the fashion fabric is typical for robust feeling overcoats
A typical practice for large, expensive, or time-consuming projects is to create a test garment, also known as a "muslin." This allows for fitting refinements and to practice technical construction elements of the design
Front chest interfacing structure. Bias horsehair canvas is fused to prevent dip between the shoulder and the bust apex. White woven interface is applied in a shape above the bust line, along the front edge, and into the lapel to provide structure at the front and across the upper chest, but allow the fabric to hang freely lower than the bust line
Dealing with the bulk
Sewing with any fabric with loft and soft hand requires consideration for the fabric residing in the seam allowances. While sewing faux fur the pile is combed away from the edge, the seam is sewn, and then the fabric is combed out of the seamline which will disguise it. A further step I took in the construction of this garment is to use an electric trimmer to remove fabric pile in the seam allowance and then to sew down the edges of the seam allowance to “open up” the seam and make it lay flatter. This is usually accomplished by pressing with an iron, but acrylic is highly susceptible to heat and the knit structure of the fabric resists effective pressing.
Beautiful lines come from engineering.
The undercollar and breast of the jacket have intersecting structural elements that work together to direct the movement of the cloth and the way it falls across the body.
The undercollar is made of the classic, dense undercollar felt. The structure is provided with bias-cut horsehair hem and the roll line is enforced with close parallel rows of stitching.
Combining fusibles, machine sewing, and hand-applied elements is a practical approach to choose suitable structural outcomes. I chose to hand-sew on the roll line because the fur would be ugly with machine stitching.
Pocket Details.
Achieving the vision of a 70s- style double breasted, full length coat requires quintessential statement welt pockets with a flap. The bulk of the fabric can be a challenge when a design element involves multiple layers and intersecting edges. The function of the jacket as a wardrobe statement piece is also a major consideration, so extra large interior patch pockets were added to the design to carry the necessary accoutrement required for a stylish, handbag-free night out.
The finished double welt pocket with flap can be seen front- and back. Black undercollar felt was used for the welt strips and the pocket flap was backed with emerald green lining satin to reduce bulk and affect crisp design lines. Note that edges of the flap tend to blend into the background fabric; this makes for a less exciting look in a static format as details are revealed in movement and use. The pocket is anchored by hand on the reverse side to give a sturdy feel to the main pockets
The emerald green satin lining is a sumptuous and exciting choice in a world of “black matches everything” linings. The oversize patch pockets break up the line of the facing with visual appeal.
Navigating the unexpected.
I’ve continually mentioned overcoming the challenges of bulky fabric. In this video I talk about one such issue with the back vent pleats which caused a displeasing effect on the silhouette. The issue was resolved by trimming the pile of the fur away and hand-stitching the vent into place.
A harmonious arrangement .
Learning the function of each structural element individually shows the power of the orchestrated whole. Classic tailoring techniques paraphrased using modern technology is an accessible and practical way to impart quality without the labor costs of couture handiwork. A carefully designed and organized selection of structural elements working together is a thing of beauty.
Displayed on the dressform inside out, the dynamics of structural elements can be identified and explained.
The coat is right-side-out in this tour of its features. At this point in the construction a vision of the final look can be clearly seen.
