Applying a Skill Set.

A personal development challenge of mine during the pandemic was to advance my sewing skill set to the highest level and construct garments of surpassing complexity. I am no longer afforded the opportunity to sew every day, but I am able to improvise and apply the breadth of knowledge I gathered and mastered into less intensive projects.

A simple wardrobe staple.

Bomber jackets are wardrobe staples for a good reason; they make jeans and sneakers look intentioned and fashionable. I chose a cropped jacket to better show off figure-hugging skinny jeans. The bright red wool fabric I found via a jobber, a textile industry term for a wholesaler who buys odd lots, over runs, and end runs from mills and production houses.

Getting the Perfect Fit.

As with many of my other outerwear projects I chose to convert the sleeve into a 2-part pattern after checking for fit. In the video I explain the differing geometries of fit between the two.

 
 

Designing Structure.

With such a simple design interfacing was also simple. A bomber jacket usually wouldn’t include structural elements, but my bespoke tool set saw an opportunity to elevate the styling of this simple look with a subtle enhancement to the body of the fabric.

Subtle Techniques to Elevate.

I love the improvisation that sewing allows throughout the process. I always approach my sewing projects as a journey to enjoy, so I look for the opportunity to take the lesser-traveled extra mile. Catch-Stitching the seam allowances is a technique that I learned while sewing a faux fur overcoat. I chose to apply the technique here to minimize the body of the seamline.

 
 

An Insider’s Tour.

All the elements coming together. This jacket is highly fitted in the shoulder so the structural elements and how they impact drape are shown very clearly.

The Final Look.

A complete look at the fit and luxurious details added to a simple project for an elevated everyday look.

 
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Exploring the structure and technical challenges of sewing a faux fur overcoat